Open Hardware
Assembly Instructions

Gather the required materials:

Special tool: 8.5mm spacer

Squeeze a little thermal paste [PP-MP0162] onto the heat break [PP-MP0171] and spread it evenly across the cylindrical surface. Use the jig to make sure the heaterblocks are aligned with each other and that the nozzles are the same distance from the heat sink. Torque the four M3 x 6 set screws [HD-BT0012] to seven in*lbs. Push a 3mm rod into the heat sink gently until it stops. If the rod does not pass all the way to the nozzle, put a red tag on the heat sink and use a different heat sink.

Install the two motor-gear assemblies into the inserted extruder body [PP-IS0037] using six M3 x 12 SHCS [HD-BT0039]. Torque the motor fasteners to 8 in * lbs. Make sure the motor connectors are facing outwards.

Press the hobbed shaft [PP-MP0173] into the large gear [PP-MP0183]. Use the alignment jig to put the middle of the gear in the middle of the from rolled section of the hobbed shaft. Press gently until it stops.

Using one M3 x 16 SHCS [HD-BT0185] and one M3 washer [HD-WA0038], Install the front bearing housing to the extruder body assembly.

Install the idler blocks as shown.

Install the rear bearing housing assembly [AS-TH0062] onto the back of the extruder body assembly. Using two M3x45 SHCS [HD-BT0154] and two M3 washers [HD-WA0038] fasten the rear bearing housing assembly to the extruder body assembly. Make the ends of the bolts flush with the nyloc nuts. Again, make sure at this point that the gears can turn through their full revolution freely and that there is no binding or grinding.

Install the idler screw and springs [HD-MS0421] through the idler assembly and extruder body into the M3 nut placed earlier. Thread the screws until they are flush with the filament holes as shown.

Using two M2 x 10 SHCS [HD-BT0107] and two M2 washers [HD-WA0012], Fasten the endstop [EL-SW0022] as shown.

Using one M3x30 [HD-BT0042], two M3x12 [HD-BT0039] and three M3 washers [HD-WA0038], fasten the extruder mount assembly to the mount as shown.

Using one M3 x 8 stainless BHCS [HD-BT0104] and one star washer [HD-WA0035] attach the zero sense line from the right side harness [AS-CB0042] to the heaterblock as shown. Route the endstop wires as shown. Note: the end stop wires go under the heater cartridge wires.

Route the heater wires as shown. Route the blue insulation first, then feed the red insulation through.

Route the part cooling fan wires as shown.

Connect the endstop switch as shown.

Install the corrugated looming [EL-MS0139] and secure with zip ties [HD-MS0058] as shown in the pictures. Trim the zip ties. Attach direction stickers [DC-LB0104] as shown, making sure that the sticker is on the pin one side of the connector.

After assembly of the Dual Extruder v3 is complete, it is necessary to verify the electrical properties of the toolhead, namely the heater cartridge and thermistor of E1 and E2

First we will test the resistance value of the heater cartridge of E1 To do so, first set your multimeter to Ohms which is signified by the capital Greek letter Omega. Now touch the probes of your multimeter to pins 5 & 6 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. The display on the multimeter should now show a value around 19 Ohms. Any value between 17.5 and 21.3 Ohms is acceptable, values outside of that range are cause for rejection of the heater cartridge and it should be replaced.

Next we will verify that the heater cartridge of E1 DOES NOT have continuity to the ground circuit. To do so, the multimeter may remain in Ohms mode or be switched to an audible continuity test mode by moving the switch to the symbol representing sound waves. Now touch one probe to the heater block, and the other to pins 5 & 6 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. Whether probing pin 5 or 6, the multimeter display should remain at 0 and no audible alarm should sound. This indicates that there is no continuity between either lead of the heater cartridge and the toolheads ground circuit. If the multimeter display reads anything but 0, or an audible alarm is heard during either half of this test, the heater cartridge must be rejected and replaced.

Next we will perform the same tests for the thermistor of E1 To do so, first set your multimeter to Ohms which is signified by the capital Greek letter Omega. Now touch the probes of your multimeter to pins 15 & 16 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. The display on the multimeter should now show a value between 80 and 120 K Ohms. Pay close attention to the units displayed on the multimeter's display; the letter 'K' should be displayed to the right of the value. If a reading is given in Ohms or Mega Ohms (indicated by the letter 'M' to the right of the value displayed) or the kOhms reading is too low (values displayed as 1.xx or similar) or otherwise outside of the range stated above, the thermistor must be rejected and replaced.

Next we will verify that the thermistor of E1 DOES NOT have continuity to the ground circuit. To do so, the multimeter may remain in Ohms mode or be switched to an audible continuity test mode by moving the switch to the symbol representing sound waves. Now touch one probe to the heater block, and the other to pins 15 & 16 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. Whether probing pin 15 or 16, the multimeter display should remain at 0 and no audible alarm should sound. This indicates that there is no continuity between either lead of the thermistor and the toolhead's ground circuit. If the multimeter display reads anything but 0, or an audible alarm is heard during either half of this test, the thermistor must be rejected and replaced.

Now its time to test E2

First we will test the resistance value of the heater cartridge of E2 To do so, first set your multimeter to Ohms which is signified by the capital Greek letter Omega. Now touch the probes of your multimeter to pins 5 & 6 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. The display on the multimeter should now show a value around 19 Ohms. Any value between 17.5 and 21.3 Ohms is acceptable, values outside of that range are cause for rejection of the heater cartridge and it should be replaced.

Next we will verify that the heater cartridge of E2 DOES NOT have continuity to the ground circuit. To do so, the multimeter may remain in Ohms mode or be switched to an audible continuity test mode by moving the switch to the symbol representing sound waves. Now touch one probe to the heater block, and the other to pins 5 & 6 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. Whether probing pin 5 or 6, the multimeter display should remain at 0 and no audible alarm should sound. This indicates that there is no continuity between either lead of the heater cartridge and the toolheads ground circuit. If the multimeter display reads anything but 0, or an audible alarm is heard during either half of this test, the heater cartridge must be rejected and replaced.

Next we will perform the same tests for the thermistor of E2 To do so, first set your multimeter to Ohms which is signified by the capital Greek letter Omega. Now touch the probes of your multimeter to pins 15 & 16 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. The display on the multimeter should now show a value between 80 and 120 K Ohms. Pay close attention to the units displayed on the multimeter's display; the letter 'K' should be displayed to the right of the value. If a reading is given in Ohms or Mega Ohms (indicated by the letter 'M' to the right of the value displayed) or the kOhms reading is too low (values displayed as 1.xx or similar) or otherwise outside of the range stated above, the thermistor must be rejected and replaced.

Next we will verify that the thermistor of E2 DOES NOT have continuity to the ground circuit. To do so, the multimeter may remain in Ohms mode or be switched to an audible continuity test mode by moving the switch to the symbol representing sound waves. Now touch one probe to the heater block, and the other to pins 15 & 16 individually. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. Whether probing pin 15 or 16, the multimeter display should remain at 0 and no audible alarm should sound. This indicates that there is no continuity between either lead of the thermistor and the toolhead's ground circuit. If the multimeter display reads anything but 0, or an audible alarm is heard during either half of this test, the thermistor must be rejected and replaced.

To finalize this test, verify that the zero sense line (ground circuit) has continuity to the nozzle. This test is best performed in the audible continuity mode. Touch one probe to the nozzle or heater block, and the other to pin 14 on the toolhead's connector. Note: Positive or negative probe positions are irrelevant to this test. An audible alarm should sound indicating that continuity is present. If so, the toolhead has passed electrical testing and may proceed to final extrusion testing. Congratulations!

Attach V3 Dual by sliding the top up into the ziptie. Once this is complete, place the extruder flush against the X-carriage and let it settle into the X-Carriage.

Select the Proper Gcode, Which is labeled "Dualv3Test". This will begin to test the fans first with a three cycle test. Confirm all fans are spinning freely and without excessive noise. Keep in mind the heatsink fan should constantly be on.

Verify the hotends heat up without big jumps in temperature. The V3 Dual should heat to 205C without any THERMAL ERRORS, MAXTEMP ERRORS, or MINTEMP ERRORS

If the tool head passes the test, put a serial number label sticker on it.